Update: On September 1st 2017, I published my 2017 Spring Racing Fashion Trends Report, a 41 page comprehensive guide to what’s trending this race season.
Like fashion, millinery trends come and go. They are constantly evolving.
But it’s harder to pick millinery trends as there are no runway shows, prediction websites or celebs spotted wearing the latest shape of millinery.
So who decides what the next big thing will be?
Recently we’ve seen the Halo, Crowns and Turbans really take off. And most milliners are adding these styles to their new season collections… but who came up with it?
Halo, crown and turban millinery shapes. Image credit: @marshmillinery (left), @lovelotus (centre), @clairehahnnz (right)
From my interviews, Jill Humphries and Rebecca Share gave some clues as to where millinery trends might originate …
Jill Humphries wrote,
“Many milliners will look at shapes from the past and try to predict – the Breton was around last year and an easier streamlined take on this is the halo that gives a similar effect and anyone can make with blocks being available to all. It doesn’t take long for a new trend to be taken on by many – which gives milliners the constant push to be different.”
Breton evolves into halo. Image credit: John French (left), @madamhat (right)
And Rebecca Share wrote,
“I believe trends begin on the overseas catwalks and are adapted and have an Aussie racing spin placed on them by the time they present at the race track each spring (i.e. Dolce & Gabbana jewel crowns, boater hats, etc.). Big department stores push certain trends and designers, which greatly influence stylists and what is worn by celebs.”
Crowns from the overseas catwalks to the Australian FOTF stage. Image credit: Alessandro Viero | GoRunway (left), @abbyvonduve (right)
So it appears new fascinator trends are created from a combination of adapting old millinery styles while taking inspiration from the wider fashion industry.
An Interview with 4 Milliners about 2017 Millinery Trends
Milliners are artists and sculptors each with their own unique style.
No matter what fascinator style is trending, you can be sure they will put their own signature spin on it, which keeps trends interesting and different even if many milliners are making the same style.
To give us some insight into this year’s trends, I’ve interviewed 4 influential milliners and asked them to share their opinions on what we can expect in 2017.
Millinery Jill
How would you describe your signature style and where do you find inspiration?
I think my signature style is sleek clean lines and not too fussy. I can create a leather stacked rose piece with thorns and leaves etc. but still keep it elegant by not adding just for the sake of it.
My inspiration comes a lot from nature – I have heaps of books on flowers and historical fashion that I think gets referenced in my work.
What shapes are you loving right now and why?
I am loving bigger pieces that are simple and the statement is their size and smaller pieces that have tons of texture harking back to the vintage eras of glamour.
What are some emerging styles and trends that we’re likely to see in 2017?
I think texture will play a massive part, beading, feathers, crinoline, veiling, leather, flowers – think romantic texturing. Look at Alexander McQueen, Delpozo, romance was born, Dior etc they are my go to for emerging style and trends.
What are your favourite colours for Autumn/Winter & Spring/Summer?
Autumn and winter will be navy still and some deep plums, lilacs and hopefully emeralds. Spring and summer I am thinking primary colours red, yellow and strong colours like green – but not all together… please!
Peacock Millinery
Image credit: Wendell Levi Teodoro (left & centre images)
How would you describe your signature style and where do you find inspiration?
My millinery style has a structural modern elegance and the signature style I’m know for is my feather work or “feather art” as I call it.
As far as inspiration goes I love the amazing things nature can do. I can be inspired by the simplest of things.
One of my favourite pieces last year was my “Papillon” piece, which was inspired by the beauty and symmetry of moths and butterflies. I hand painted a gold V pattern on each of the 115 feathers to represent the pattern of a little moth that visited me on the tennis court one night. The curving shape represented wings encasing, almost cocooning the wearer.
What shapes are you loving right now and why?
I love floating free-form designs. I love when a headpiece takes your attention, and flows around the face or head, or swirls off to the side or up to the sky.
I also like the crown and halo shapes. They are feminine and give height. But I tend to tweak these away from the traditional shapes we’ve been seeing to set my designs apart from the rest.
What are some emerging styles and trends that we’re likely to see in 2017?
As far as millinery goes, they’ll be crowns galore, but we’re going to start to see some adaption of these. Crowns are getting bigger and more ornate and the types of materials used will be key in getting the upper hand on this trend. Halos, perchers and boaters will still have a strong field of supporters.
What materials and fabrications do you think we’ll see this year?
Well you’re going to see more feathers from me. I love pushing their boundaries and working out different and innovative ways to use them in my designs.
What are your favourite colours for Autumn/Winter & Spring/Summer?
A/W – my colour of choice is black. I love its simple elegance.
S/S – Pinks, reds and oranges and powder blue. I can pretty much guarantee that I will always gravitate towards these when shopping for my spring outfits.
Moore Millinery Designs
How would you describe your signature style and where do you find inspiration?
I would say that my signature style would be created from wire, as I love the freedom that wire gives me because you can create almost any shape you like. I also love to add a little bling onto my pieces, which identifies my involvement in the Calisthenics industry for 25 years, as all 4 daughters were heavily involved. This bling could be in the form of sequins, beads, crystals bugles, the list goes on and you will almost always find some sort of embellishment on most of my pieces.
My inspiration will come from many hours drawing and fiddling around with different materials and ideas and searching Pinterest.
What shapes are you loving right now and why?
I love the boater because it’s a very classic stylish hat. Almost any person can wear a boater and it will always look amazing. I like the fact you can dress up a boater with any trimmings, flowers, quills, bows and embellishments and that they can be worn on the side, straight or even perched.
You can use any material when making a boater, so you can match your outfits easily. Boaters are also a lovely introduction to women who have not worn a hat before, as they are not oversized, although the brim and crown on a boater can also be made in many size variations.
What are some emerging styles and trends that we’re likely to see in 2017?
The emerging styles and trends we are likely to see in 2017 for millinery is definitely the crown, halos and turbans. In the fashion world I think ruffles, pleats, lace, colour and embellishments are on trend and big statement earrings are certainly a favourite this year.
The crown is shaping up to be a very big trend, and this year I have made a modern twist to the crown which you can see on my instagram!
What materials and fabrications do you think we will see this year?
I am always on the lookout for different material that I think will work on any hat and obviously different materials for different seasons. Leather and lace always looks so classy and I feel are definitely on trend this year. I love working with felt, however that is more an autumn material.
When I am not creating wirework, I do enjoy working with covering materials such as Lycra. I have worked with Lycra for 25 years and this comes in so many textures and colours, from plains, velvets, sequined, mesh, and lace to name a few. I also enjoy incorporating both textures into the one piece.
What are your favourite colours for Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer?
Very hard question! I do love two main colours then throwing in a third colour for a pop factor. Autumn/Winter→ Black/red, Green/gold, Navy/red.
Metallic→Gold and Rose Gold, Maroon
Spring/Summer→ Yellow, Red, White, Greens, Blues, Peach, Orange
Rebecca Share Millinery
How would you describe your signature style and where do you find inspiration?
My signature style is dominated by dramatic, structured silhouettes with a focus on clean lines and high-impact trims. I always strive to make designs that are true to my style and I’m not necessarily guided by what is the current trend. This has flowed through to not only my Millinery collections and bespoke orders but the wooden hat blocks I now design for ‘Hat Blocks Australia’.
Inspiration can come in any form for me, it could be the shape of a sweet potato I peel for dinner, the way a leaf curls and twists, geometric designs or textured straw cloth, I am constantly inspired by so many wonderful things in life and always have a sketch book on hand to visually transform it into a design.
What shapes are you loving right now and why?
We saw the emergence of the blocked crown hats last Spring/Summer and they are currently gaining in popularity. They are structured and stunning and can be adorned with an array of stunning trims and flowers.
I love Halo’s and crowns, they have been popular for the past few years, they are easy to wear, look stunning and take you from day to night. I’m loving the boater style hats and hope to see them even wider brimmed this season, they are structured and elegant.
What are some emerging styles and trends that we’re likely to see in 2017?
Spring/Summer’s 2017 biggest emerging design is turban style scarves and head wraps. In a variety of glam materials and silk abaca the turban styles add a 20’s chic to the new season. Luxurious satin headwraps add volume with a bow or bun right at the front of the head that exude an old-timey confidence.
Veils are back creating a glam, Hollywood vibe. With all the gorgeous vintage veiling available there is sure to be some stunning net over face action this Spring. Keep the veiling simple and delicate and team with an extravagant beaded headband or flower crown. We may also see a hint of cowboy inspired hats but not as we know them, think beaded, two toned and in straw instead of traditional leather.
What materials and fabrications do you think we’ll see this year?
Vintage veiling, silk material head wraps and jewelled metal crowns.
What are your favourite colours for Autumn/Winter & Spring/Summer?
I love warmer tones for Autumn/winter, Deep Red, Black and Golden metallic’s are my favourites.
Spring/Summer is without a doubt my favourite season to design for and I have a massive crush on Pink, lemon, blue and traditional Derby Day colours of Black and white. Gold is also a winner and I’ve lost count of the amount of gold crowns I fashioned last season.
I always say, don’t be driven by current colour trends, if you want to stand out in the FOTF it’s great to wear a completely different colour to everyone else.
And there you have it.
Some common themes running through all of our interviewee’s responses… expect to see the emergent turban, new takes on the crown and halo, and a continued love for boaters and perchers.
Are you looking for a hat to buy or rent for your next race day? Check out Millinery Market, an online marketplace where you can find new and used millinery for rent or for sale.
What millinery trends are you loving right now? Let us know in the comments below!
